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Lagavulin 16 Year Old White Horse (1990s) Smokier Darker 70cl (PRE DIAGEO)
Complex, full-bodied and well-balanced. This 16-year-old single malt whisky is a rare bottle from the 1990s that was awarded the “Classic Malts of Scotland” status as a recognition of being one of the best single malts produced. It has a complex palate full of fruits, vanilla, honey and floral notes combined with sandal wood and fire smoke hints. Yet all flavours do not overpower each other, but dovetail smoothly into one another.
WHITE HORSE (Should have been called the smoky horse)
The White Horse name was trademarked soon after and the company took an interest in the newly-founded Craigellachie distillery (eventually acquiring full control in 1919). Mackie & Co also bought Greenlees & Colville Ltd, which owned a little distillery called Hazelburn in Campbeltown (until it shut down in 1925). Shortly thereafter the company sold off its non-core assets and eventually became White Horse Distillers Limited. “And some things that should not have been forgotten were lost. History became legend. Legend became myth.”
Or in this case, ended up as all things do in whisky, as part of the Diageo group. The company was dissolved in 2010, but with that brief snapshot, one can see how White Horse (which many people today may not have heard of) has left its fingerprints all over whisky history.
Colour: Amber resin
On the nose: Sweet peat smoke. A gentle bit of pipe tobacco slides in. Sea salt, brine and a bit of tar—almost rubber hitting the tarmac on a coastal airport. All of this complemented by the sweet complexity of the light red fruit and menthol notes.
In the mouth: Smooth yet oily. Hits the palate with a crash of dark chocolate, orange peel and coffee icing. A touch of crème caramel, cinnamon and vanilla crescendos into the peat smoke flavours. This never overpowers the dram but instead works together in a delightful harmony. A longer finish, nicely bringing out the citrus and a few earthy notes, while the smoke continues to operate in the background.
In case it wasn’t clear, I thought this was absolutely delicious. This is a great example of a classic Lagavulin 16, but with a twist. It’s from another time, demonstrating the character of the distillery and its journey. It is an excellent example of learning from our history, as well as an enjoyable experience, for no other reason than that very binary purpose of why many of us explore a variety of whiskies – tasty or not tasty. This one definitely falls in the former.
The real intrigue in this tasting was where the tasting notes took diverging paths. This White Horse edition has an extraordinary depth of flavour, and it is that complexity that sometimes could end up as a cacophony of notes, but manages to avoid the discord and come together perfectly. The intensity of the smoke that might otherwise be jarring is endlessly supported by the remaining flavours, specifically those sweet and sherry notes (like how one’s gardener might support you in a quest, for example).
These days you will see these bottles bouncing from site to site, slowly creeping up the price scale, tattered box and all. Do you really care about the box, though? Just buy it and drink it; if not, you will be missing out. The other option? Someone with Smaug-loads of money will just end up hoarding these bottles in their Lonely Mountain treasure room.
So, I hope you enjoyed what has been another stop on my adventure through the world of whisky. Traveling this path of new and exciting whiskies has its trials and triumphs. But, remember, “not all those who wander are lost”.
*Bottle Only. In good condition albeit some time wear to the labels
43% ABV
70cl
A lost treasure that supply will end one day.... sad times
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